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Band Saw 

A GUIDE BOOK 

for 
Filers, Sawyers and Woodworkers 




Price $1.00 



COMPILED BY 



Simonds Manufacturing Go. 

"The Saw Makers" Established 1832 

Fitchburg, Mass. 
Five Factories Twelve Branches 

Copyright 192 1 by Simonds Mfg. Co. 








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NOV -I 1921 



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INTRODUCTION 

A S a result of numerous inquiries and requests for 
•^^^ information which have been received, the Simonds 
Manufacturing Company some time ago concluded to 
issue a series of booklets covering the manufacture, care and 
use of Circular Saws, Band Saws and Machine Knives. 
The first named book, The Circular Saw has been 
published. It met with popular favor and appears to be 
appreciated by users of circular saws. We hope The 
Band Saw which we herewith present for your considera- 
tion will prove as satisfactory as its companion work and 
-,that it may contain information which will be available 
for use in the great woodworking industry all over the 
world, where Simonds Saws hold such an enviable place. 

In presenting The Band Saw it has been our endeavor 
to set forth accurate data, the greater part of which is 
founded on information which has been compiled and 
which we accumulated from our store of records and 
actual experience of eighty-nine years as makers of steel 
cutting edges. 

While we do not wish to convey the impression that we 
are super-authority on the subject of handling saws, we do 
say that the information we herein offer is considered 
most authentic. We have avoided expression of opinions 
by individuals or organizations, and have grouped ideas 
from experienced sawyers, filers and millmen in every sec- 
tion, to which we have added our own expert knowledge 
gained as saw makers. It has been the endeavor of the 
Simonds Manufacturing Company, since it first commenced 
to make saws, to keep in constant touch with those who use 
saws, and as a result we have become familiar with many 
of the troubles incidental to their use. 

We therefore offer The Band Saw for your approval 
in the belief that it may be of service to the sawyer, filer or 
millman, who is constantly seeking accurate information 
which will tend to improve his business. 

3 



The Band Saw 

Page 

Introduction 3 

Chapter i Superiority of the Band Saw 5 

Chapter 2 Band Saw Steel 10 

Chapter 3 Making a Band Saw 12 

Chapter 4 Rolling and Tensioning Wide Band Saws 14 

Chapter 5 Leveling a Band Saw 26 

Chapter 6 Brazing a Band Saw 31 

Chapter 7 How to Tension a Band Saw 33 

Chapter 8 Band Saw Speed and Strain 39 

Chapter 9 Band Saw Mills 42 

Chapter id Fitting and Running Small Band Saws 45 

Chapter ii "Safety First" with Small Band Saws 51 



CHAPTER I 

Superiority of the Band Saw 

For years the problem which confronted sawmakers was 
how to reduce the time and power consumed, as well as the 
waste in sawdust, in converting logs into boards. Event- 
ually the perfection of the band saw proved to be the 
solutioti. 

The Saw. William Newberry of London, England, 
patented the first endless band saw in 1808, although his 
machine was never developed further than the model sub- 
mitted to the Patent Office. The great difficulty in making 
a smooth, strong joint in the steel band was a stumbling- 
block which arrested practical development until New- 
berry's time. 

The old difficulty in joining the blade so it would run 
over the wheels without breaking was not overcome until 
nearly forty years after Newberry gave this type of saw to 
the world. 

The Steel. When one considers that the modern band 
saw travels at the speed of about one and one-half miles 
per minute — or faster than the fastest express train — that 
in connection with its width it is extraordinarily thin, one 
will have some idea of the strain to which it is subjected, 
and a better conception of the wonderful quality of the 
steel that has made the production of these saws possible. 

The band saw which remains today in practically the 
same form as when invented is still the last word in saw 
efficiency. It is in the perfection of a suitable steel to 
withstand the successive bending and straightening while 
in operation, the making of a proper joint or "braze," and 
the improvement in the form of the teeth that modern 
advances have been made. 

5 



It is hardly safe to predict what may be developed in the 
way of improvements to the saws as at present manufac- 
tured, but it is difficult to conceive of anything which will 
surpass the material, construction, and operation of the 
band saw as now used. 

Widths. Wide band saws which today range in size 
up to i8 inches in width, are familiar to almost everyone. 
They consist of an endless band, or ribbon of steel, usually 
toothed on one side. They are also made with both 
edges toothed. This is usually done in the case of large 
band saws, although double-edge band saws are sometimes 
made in width as narrow as 8 inches. 

The early log machines used quite narrow saws, 3 inches 
to 5 inches wide, but owing to the fact that by using wider 
saws a faster rate of cutting could be obtained, and that 
there are a number of experienced men who understand 
their treatment, a very much wider saw than was formerly 
the case, has come into use. 

The Wheel. The band saw is run over two wheels, or 
pulleys, which, in the case of perpendicular band saw 
machines, are set one above the other, and spaced some 
distance apart. 

Thin Blades. The band saw has superseded the cir- 
cular saw in several lines of work. It has many advantages 
over the circular saw — especially in that class of sawing 
where its very thin blade makes it desirable. Band saws 
from 2 to 8 inches in width, are extensively used for ripping 
and resawing, for, compared with the circular saw, they 
save kerf, time, and power. 

This leads us to the consideration of the band saw as 
related to the sawmill. Before its introduction there was 
a limit in size of timber which could be sawn by circular 
saws, which could cut only logs of a size slightly less than 
half the diameter of the saw. The size of the saw itself was 



also limited; difficulties of management and running arose 
as soon as the saw diameter was increased beyond a certain 
point. 

Double Mills. Double mills were used to a great 
extent in regions where large timber was being cut. By 
this arrangement, which consisted of two circular saws, 
one above the other, logs of an ordinary size were sawn 
with the larger or "main" circular saw, while the smaller, 
or "Top Saw," was brought into action when a log ex- 
ceeded the capacity of the main saw. The band saw 
obviated all this, for there is practically no limit to the size 
of logs which can be cut by band saws. 

In large band mills, as a rule, the work is brought to the 
saw upon a carriage driven by feeding devices independent 
of the saw. 

Continuous Cutting. Compared with the recipro- 
cating saws formerly used in sawmills, such as mill, gang, 
etc., the band saw has the advantage of steady and con- 
tinuous cutting action, no time being lost in return stroke. 
However, gangs of reciprocating saws, by reason of their 
ability to cut as many as 30 boards at one time, are still 
retained in numbers of large mills as an adjunct to the 
bands. 

When one considers the value of every Ye inch saved 
in kerf in the course of a day's sawing of several hundred 
thousand feet, the great economy in using the thin blade 
band saw can be more fully appreciated. 

Large Bands. Large band saws for log sawing range 
from 8 to 18 inches in width. The general width for single- 
edged bands, i.e., toothed on one edge, is 12 inches, while 
double-edged band saws are made in a variety of sizes. 
The majority of these latter, however, are about 14 inches 
in width, although, as previously stated, some few are made 
as narrow as 8 inches. 

7 



The length of the standard log band saw varies, according 
to size and make of mill, from 40 to 60 feet. 

Double-edged band saws are now used frequently and 
the log can be cut as it moves in both directions. 

The swage set is principally used on log bands and 
resaws. Swaging the teeth consists of spreading or 
widening the cutting edge of each tooth so that it extends 
slightly beyond each side of the blade, giving clearance to 
the body of the saw while cutting. Sufficient clearance 
prevents friction and insures free running. 

Then, too, with the swage tooth both corners of the tooth 
cut, consequently It will not only do twice as much work as 
a spring-set tooth, which merely cuts half a kerf, but in 
addition it will stand more feed, thus greatly increasing 
the capacity of the mill. 

The band resaw which is now extensively used has been 
successfully operated in gangs. There are mills in the 
United States and Canada using gangs containing two or 
more machines. 

The Hand. The experienced sawyer or mill man is 
familiar with the "hand" of a band saw, but for the benefit 
of the beginner it may be stated that a saw is either right 
or left hand. As you stand facing the mill with the teeth 
of the saw toward you, if the log passes on the right hand 
• side, it is a right hand saw; if it passes on the left of the 
saw it is a left hand saw. 

Narrow Bands. Band saws adapted for certain kinds 
of cutting are known as Narrow and Wide. Machines on 
which are working saws 3^ inch up to 1% inch are desig- 
nated as narrow bands. These are used extensively in 
mills, cooperage shops, furniture factories and other wood- 
working establishments, for a great variety of purposes. 
They are employed to cut in addition to wood, slate, 
fiber-board, paper, bone, meat, hard rubber, ivory, asbestos 



magnesia, horn, amber, cloth, bronze, brass, copper, 
aluminum, nickel, iron, steel, carbon, ice, celluloid, talc, 
camphor, mica, pearl, shell and cardboard. 

In using small band saws, the work rests upon a table, 
through the center of which the saw passes, the work being 
fed by hand. 

For general work, the blades are made as narrow as 3^ 
inch and from that are graduated up by eighths to i finches, 
saws up to this width being considered "Narrow Band 
Saws." The length is usually i8 feet, or longer according 
to the size of the machine on which they are used. 

Cutting Circles. The fact that with a narrow band 
saw, circles or other curved lines can be cut in any desired 
direction, makes it available for use in cutting intricate and 
ornamental patterns. Where formerly scroll sawing was 
done entirely by the reciprocating type — web or scroll 
saws, working up and down, and compass saws — now the 
narrow band saw is being widely used with excellent and 
greater results. Its downward motion carries the sawdust 
away without the aid of a blower, leaving the lines drawn 
on the work perfectly clean to the operator. 

It is understood, of course, that band saws can be used 
in this connection only in cases where the pattern is begun 
on the edge of the stock, for interior designs it is necessary 
to use a reciprocating saw (jig saw), the end of which can 
be passed through the interior of the pattern. 

Small, narrow band saws are fitted with spring-set. 
With the spring-set the point of one tooth is bent to the 
right and the next to the left, and so on alternately through- 
out the length of the saw. This effects the necessary 
clearance. 



CHAPTER II 

Making Band Saw Steel 

Strength. When one considers that a band saw is 
subject to terrific strain, due to the high speed under which 
^t is operated, it is not surprising that the steel which com- 
poses the band must be of exceptional quality. Otherwise 
the saw is of little value. A 50 foot band saw operating at 
the rate of 11,000 feet per minute bends 440 times. This 
is a severe test of steel. The molecules undergo a constant 
change, shifting and reshaping themselves as the saw goes 
on and off the wheel, and upon the ductility, uniformity 
and tensile strength of these molecules depends the life 
and power of the saw*. 

Alloys. In the manufacture of steel for Simonds band 
saws only high grade alloys are used. It requires a high 
prcentage of new iron together with such alloys as will 
give the greatest toughness and keenness to the cutting 
edge. Steel experts have proven that nickel gives to cer- 
tain steel a toughness not obtained by any other alloy. 
It has been found by the makers of Simonds band saws that 
the resistance required in these saws can best be obtained by 
the liberal use of nickel alloy. While it adds to the cost per 
pound of the steel, the results obtained warrant the extra 
expenditure. 

Band saw steel must be absolutely free from blow-holes, 
pipes, seams, splits and other defects, and that is why 
particular care must be taken in its making. It must be 
uniform in hardness. Because of the necessity for a special 
high-grade saw steel Simonds Manufacturing Company 
some years ago established its own steel mills which are now 
maintained at Lockport, N. Y. 

Care in Making. In order that the reader may 
properly follow the numerous operations, and realize the 

10 



infinite care necessary in making a band saw it is necessary 
that one turn attention to the heart of the steel works. In 
the Simonds Steel Mills, under the most modern methods, 
the first step toward the finished product is taken. 

Crucible Steel. The foundation of Simonds band 
saws being crucible steel, that means it is melted in 
earthen pots over furnaces in which care must be taken at 
all times to retain a certain degree of heat. When the 
"charge" or "mix" in several of these pots has been 
brought to the proper heat point, the pots are removed 
from the furnaces and all poured into one large ladle. 
This is to assure uniformity of steel. The large ladle 
containing the seething mass of metal is then poured into 
special moulds which form ingots of solid blocks, weighing 
from 200 to 800 pounds. These ingots are later subjected 
to a careful inspection. If there are surface flaws they are 
removed by chipping. The ingot is then reheated and 
hammered to the shape and dimensions required. It then 
goes to the mill to be rolled into plates. In this operation 
much care is necessary in the heating and working of the 
steel. The saw plate ingot must now be drawn into proper 
dimensions without injury to the quality of the steel. 
Careful supervision and skillful workmanship must be 
exercised to produce saw plates of uniformity, and also 
to prevent any weakening by injurious strains due to 
improper rolling and working. 

Heating the Plate. The next operation is the heating 
of the plate to a uniform temperature. This is to soften 
the steel and bring it to a proper condition for working. 
The pressing operation to flatten the plate follows, after 
which the plate is trimmed and inspected. If found to con- 
form with the standard for Simonds Nickel Steel Band 
Saws, it is passed and is ready for the necessary operations 
for making the saw. 

II 



CHAPTER III 

Making a Band Saw 

The Blade. A band saw blade when received from the 
rolling mills has little resemblance to the finished saw. 
From the black, unfinished band of steel to the smooth 
polished, tempered, toothed and tensioned saw is the 
difference of many operations in which the skill of experi- 
enced saw-makers is shown to a high degree in the manu- 
facture of Simonds band saws. Tempering in oil bath, 
grinding and smithing or hammering out the various forms 
of bends and twists and the final process of swaging, 
sidedressing and sharpening the teeth, are some of the 
important processes which the saw passes through. This 
requires men skilled in practice as well as in theoretical 
knowledge. 

Hardening and Tempering. In the making of a 
Simonds band saw the first operation after the blank band is 
received in the saw factory from the steel mill is the work 
of hardening and tempering. For this furnaces and other 
equipment of special design are required in order that 
uniformity of temper may be secured throughout the 
entire length of the band. Upon being removed from the 
furnace the saw is given a special treatment used exclusive- 
ly by Simonds, and then it is tested for temper by a scien- 
tific method, nothing being left for guesswork or chance. If 
the saw comes up to the established Simonds standard it is 
passed. In another department the ends of the band are 
cut off and the smithing done in the "black" to make it 
level. After being ground to the thickness required the 
saw is then sheared under a power press to the required 
width. This last operation leaves the solid edge for 
toothing. The grinding of the edges to obtain uniform 
width of the blade is then accomplished through the use of 

12 



special machines and the band is then ready for toothing. 
It is placed in a power press set with a die of the particular 
pattern of tooth desired. At each stroke of the press one 
tooth is cut. After toothing the band is put through 
the brazing operation. The ends of laps are beveled 
by machinery and dressed by hand-filing to assure a per- 
fect joint. The ends are then joined by a strip of silver- 
solder and held in proper position by a clamp. Heated 
irons are placed on the part to be brazed and also under it. 
Heavy pressure is applied until the solder is thoroughly 
melted and the brazed part cooled off. The joint is then 
dressed and given the proper tension, the result being a 
strong uniform joint. The saw is now ready for polishing 
and after this has been accomplished it is rolled and 
tensioned by practically the same methods as are used 
in the saw mills. 

Grinding. The endless band is next placed on an 
automatic grinding machine and the teeth ground, this 
machine being set for the particular size and shape of 
tooth to be ground. After this the teeth are swaged. On 
large band saws intended for mills or machines of great 
capacity the teeth are usually swage-set, the points of the 
teeth being spread to extend beyond the sides of the blade 
for clearance to prevent friction while cutting. Except in 
the case of narrow band saws the teeth are sharpened on 
automatic machines in a similar .manner to that of grinding 
the teeth. This assures uniform work in cutting. In the 
case of narrow band saws with fine teeth, hand filing is 
frequently resorted to. Following the sharpening the saw 
is etched, and before being packed for shipment the 
operation known as "stiffening" to bring up the elasticity 
of the saw is applied. 



13 



CHAPTER IV 

Rolling and Tensioning Wide 
Band Saws 

New Saws. In the manufacturing of wide band saws it 
is not possible to subject the saws to the same strains that 
they receive in mills. They are liable to change more in 
the first run than on any succeeding one, and should be 
gone over carefully the first time they come off. In fact, if 
the practice of running a saw only half an hour on its first 
run then taking it off and touching it up wherever necessary 
were more generally used, there would be fewer cracked 
band saws, and their life would be greatly increased. 

Care. All first-class filers and millmen know that 
excessive speed, too much tension, case-hardening or 
glazing from the use of an unsuitable emery wheel, gum 
adhering to the face of the wheel, crystalization from too 
heavy hammering, cuts on the surface of the saw from 
sharp faced hammers, vibration of either machine or saw, 
sharp angles in the gullets, imperfectly adjusted guides, 
backs of saws being too long or too short, excessively cross 
aligned to make them "track, " insufficient throat room and 
hook, crowding the saw against the back guard, will cause 
a saw to crack. Yet notwithstanding the fact that all 
band saws are more or less subject to these conditions, 
entirely too often the cause of fracture is attributed to the 
quality of the steel, or over-hardness. 

Toughness. It may be said in justice to the saw man- 
ufacturer that due consideration should be given the fact 
that the saw is only one item, while each and every one of 
the above named causes is a large factor in producing cracks 
in band saws. If the saw will stand swaging, and the swage 
can be compressed without fracturing the steel, it is con- 

14 



elusive evidence that the steel is tough, and that the temper 
is not too high. 

A Few Points. Many letters are received from band 
mill owners and operators asking advice as to the best 
method to fit, tension, and operate saws, in order to obtain 
the best results in capacity and quality of lumber made, 
and, at the same time, get the most wear out of the saws. 

It is almost impossible to lay down rules that will fit all 
cases, or answer correctly any one of them, without know- 
ing the exact conditions under which the saws are to run, 
but we will give a few of the most important points in 
connection with the care and management of band saws, 
which if followed out carefully, will aid those who have 
neglected any of these points. 

Assuming that you have a good mill, built by a man who 
has learned by experience so to proportion and distribute 
the metal in the machine, that the saw can be strained up 
to the proper point without springing or distorting any 
part of the machine, and yet have ample margin of strength 
to properly stand the additional strain put on it by vibra- 
tion — such a mill is the only one from which a man can 
expect to get best results. 

Vibration. It is well known that vibration is one of 
the greatest causes of bad results in the use of band saws, 
and knowing this, great attention should be paid at all 
times to the wheels and their shafts, the journals, and boxes. 
The wheels must be round, plumb, and in perfect balance, 
and the shafts must run free in their boxes, with no lost 
motion. 

Cracking. Sawyers frequently complain that their 
saws, which have been doing good work and giving perfect 
satisfaction, begin to crack. This is not so surprising when 
one considers the great tensile strain the saw is subjected 
to while running and the great number of times it is bent 

15 



and straightened in running over the wheels, all of which 
eventually cause crystallization of the steel, and tends to 
crack the saw. 

Less Crown. None of the leading band mill owners 
are putting so much crown in their wheels as they were a 
few years ago, and some of them are making flat wheels. 
Each style has its advocates, and will give good satisfaction 
when properly handled. But, as some of the leading mill 
builders give ^ inch in a lo inch face wheel, it seems a 
question of education or preference on the part of a perfectly 
flat faced wheel. However, it is easy to see that the more 
crown there is to the wheels, the more tension will be 
required, which means that the saw will need more hammer- 
ing and rolling, consequently it will not be so flat, and neces- 
sarily will need more kerf to clear the plate. Saws kept in 
this condition are more liable to crack. 

Uniform Tension. Perfectly uniform tension Is an 
important factor in the care of band saws, for, if the saw 
has fast and loose places in it, the tendency to crack is 
largely increased, the fast spots cracking from undue 
strain, and the loose spots from constant buckling of the 
surplus metal. 

Tools. The tools required for the care of band saws are 
a roll, a cross-face hammer, and a round or dog-head 




Fig. No. I 



i6 




Fig. No 



hammer, each weighing about two and one-half pounds. 

The face in line with the handle of the hammer is termed 
the long face; the face at right angles with the line of 
handle, is the cross face. A blow struck with this hammer, 
when held in the position as shown in Fig. 3 is a long-face 




Fig. No. 3 



blow, and, by turning the hammer over without altering 
the line of the handle, but reversing the position of the 
faces, cross-face blows can be struck with it. 

The round-face or "dog-head" hammer has but one face, 
which, as its name indicates, is round. It is used chiefly 
for adjusting the tension. This face must be ground con- 
vex, of an even sweep, so as to strike a round blow exactly 
in the centre of the face, the mark of its blows to be about 
J^ to 3^ inch in diameter. 

By the use of the cross-face and long-face hammer, the 
operator can, without changing his position, make all the 
forms of blows shown in cuts. 

To become accustomed to the use of the hammer, take 
each hammer in turn, grasping it firmly by the handle 
about two-thirds its length from the head. 

17 



Too much attention cannot be given to the matter of 
becoming proficient in the command of the hammer. 

Saw Hammering. Having now learned to control the 
hammer you may proceed to the practice of saw hammer- 
ing, and the adjustment of saws. To experiment, take a 
piece of worn-out band saw, about five feet long, and lay 
it on the anvil. Take a straight-edge and place it edge- 
wise across the saw. Beginning at the end farthest from 
you find the largest lumps first, drawing the level over the 
entire extent of each lump. Lay the bevel down and take 
the hammer, and, by a careful distribution of blows, pro- 
ceed to knock down the lumps, using blows heavy or light 
as the case may require. 

Blows. Repeat the operation until you have gone the 
entire length of the piece, turn it over and repeat the opera- 
tion on the other side. The direction of blows is across the 




Fig. No. 4 

line of the straight edge (see Fig. 8) and must always be 
so; hence, as your instructions were to place your straight 
edge square across the saw, the blows you have applied. 



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which run lengthwise of the saw, are long-face blows, 
(See Fig. 4.)- Whichever face of the hammer you use, the 




Fig. No. 6 
name of the blow is determined by its direction. (See Figs 
4, 5, 6 and 7). 

Having taken out the long-face lumps (Fig. 4) go over 
the plate carefullyja second time to see that the work has 






Fig. No. 7 
been'properly done, then proceed to take out the cross-face 
lumps. (See Fig. 5.) 




Tension. To gain a knowledge of the tension as 
applied to the band saw, lay the piece you have already been 
working on, lengthwise, and take hold of one end, letting 
th.e farthest end rest on the plate back of the anvil. Grasp 
tightly, and bend to a curve by a pressure of the hand 
(Fig. 8 shows the manner of holding the plate). When 
the straight edge (Fig. 12) is placed across the saw the parts 




Fig. No. 9 

drawn to the straight edge are "fast," and the parts that 
fall away from it are "loose," and the parts that neither 




draw to, nor fall away, are "stiff," that is, they show no 
tension (See Figs 8, 9 and 10.) 

Stiffening. The effort you are now engaged in is to 
make this piece "stiff" or flat, without any tension. To 
this end, first find a "fast" place by bending in the manner 
before described. The "fast" place will show in the man- 
ner that a lump shows when the plate is lying flat (See 
Fig. 9.) Having located the "fast" places, and noting their 
extent, turn the plate over, and it will be found they show 
in exactly the same manner as on the other side of the plate. 
With the round hammer, hammer equally on either side, 
try with the straight edge, and proceed until you have taken 
out all the "fast." 

Fast or Loose. The "loose" places are those that will 
drop away from the straight edge when the saw is bent. 
(See Fig. 8). These are removed by hammering on 




Fig. No. II 
either edge of the plate. (See Fig. 11). Hammer the 
piece until it shows neither "fast" nor "loose" places, but 
shows "stiff" throughout, as described above. 

Leveling Up. Now proceed to "level up," that is, 
knock down any lumps you may have made in using the 
round-face hammer. When the blade is bent under the 
level as previously described and shown in Fig. 8, a "fast" 
place shows where the blows should be placed. 

For Beginners. The foregoing illustrations and 

advice are for the beginner, to show ho'w tension may be 
applied to the saw with the hammer, but we recommend 



21 



the rolls, which will do the same work, except in a few 
instances, for the reason that every blow of the hammer 
shortens the life of the saw by closing the molecules of the 
steel, robbing it of its elasticity, thereby causing brittle- 
ness and inviting cracks. 

Twists. There are two kinds of twists, the long-face 
and the cross-face. The long-face is that which must be 
removed by the use of the long face of the cross-face ham- 
mer applied diagonally across the blade, as in Fig. 6. 
The cross-fa-ce twist is that which must be removed by the 
use of the cross face of the cross-face hammer applied 
diagonally across the blade, as in Fig. 7. Now, as the 
long-face produces a cross-face twist, the opposite blow 
(cross-face) will remove it or vice versa. The same rule 
applies to twists as to tension. Both sides of the blade 
must be equally hammered. Before removing either 
twist, place the straight edge diagonally across the blade, 
and you will find that it shows a lump at right angles to the 
straight edge. Changing the position of the straight edge 
to an exactly opposite diagonal direction, you will find a 
hollow. Without changing the position of the straight 
edge, turn the piece over, and you will find a hollow on 
either side, and, in like manner, with the straight edge in 
the opposite diagonal direction you will find a lump on 
both sides, showing that both sides must be hammered to 
remove the twist. 

Removing Twists. In removing twists, care must be 
taken not to hammer too much, or an opposite twist to the 
one removed will be produced. Also note that when the 
piece is lying flat on the leveling block, the parts which do 
not lie flat are at opposite corners to the piece. Where 
there are no twists, and the hammering is done any other 
way than either parallel with the length of the blade, or 
squarely across it, a twist is produced. 

22 



I 



It would be presumption to expect that one can take a 
saw and adjust it with any hope of success, without some 
practical knowledge, and this you cannot expect to obtain 
by working on new saws as they come from the manu- 
facturer, or trying to adjust them in their first deviation or 
flatness. Try to master the above rudimentary instruc- 
tions. The more practice, the better able one will be to 
keep the saw in working order. 

Sharp Saws. A saw should never be run when ex- 
tremely dull. Normal feed when the saw is dull, is the 
same as feeding a well sharpened saw beyond its capacity. 
Therefore, never neglect this important part of your 
labors. Always keep saws sharp and in good condition. 

Clearance. Not having set or clearance enough the 
closing of the grain or fibre produces heat at the base of the 
teeth. This, if in undue degree, causes expansion at the 
edge of saws, which results in causing a wavy or vibrating 
motion likely at any time to start small cracks at the 
bottom of gullets. 

When the set or swage is light, the lumps on the saw, 
even when passed over as of no consequence by the straight 
edge, will show bright and clean, while the hollow places are 
of a dull color. Watch your saw carefully, and, when these 
lumps appear, take the blocking hammer and straight edge 
and go over them carefully, removing them as before 
instructed. 

By watching these indications, and by a careful use of 
the straight edge and hammer, you will, by a little practice, 
produce a flatter saw than by any other means available 
to the millman. In all saws, band, gang, and circular, the 
most essential quality is a steel and temper that will swage 
and hold the corners and at the same time be stiff enough 
to stand up to its work and hold its tension for a reasonable 

23 



length of time. We claim for Simonds Saws that in this 
respect they stand at the head of all makes. 

Double Gut Bands. A/lore care and frequent fitting 
is required to maintain the double-cut saws than single- 
cutting variety. The principle of tensioning and leveling 
is the same as that employed on the single-cut band saw, 
but it is necessary to be careful and have the log side pre- 
sent a true and even surface. 

In fact filers should be careful to keep both edges 
straight and true, as a double cut band saw cannot run 
properly with one edge longer than the other. 

If in running it should strike a little gravel or become 
dull on the log side it is necessary to change and refit the 
saw at once or bad lumber will result. Rules governing 
the rolling, straightening and dressing the teeth on single- 
cut saws apply as well on the double-cut band. The tools 
and machinery are the same except the grinder and 
clamp. For this purpose there are two different grinders, 
one being used to grind the saw on both sides at the same 
time and the other to grind but one side and repeat the 
operation on the other side. 

Mill operators and filers agree that the band sharpener 
should be a type similar to the ordinary sharpener for single- 
cut bands designed to sharpen one side of the saw at a 
time, the saw being supported in the ordinary manner on 
post brackets and fed by front and back feed finger, the 
sharpener equipped as a right- and left-hand machine. 
For supporting these saws there are six special post 
brackets faced with hardened steel, over which the points of 
the saw slide. On the special feed pawl posts at front and 
rear of the sharpener, similar supports are provided, and 
this method of supporting the double-cutting band saw 
proves satisfactory in practice, making it easy to handle 
the saw without injury to the teeth. 

24 



For double-cutting band saws a special filing clamp is 
required. This is provided with one jaw that will swing so 
as to permit the insertion or removal of the saw without 
injury to the saw teeth. In most respects the machines 
such as the swage, shaper, stretcher, brazing clamp and 
lap grinder are suitable for either single- or double-cut band 
saws. 



CHAPTER V 

Leveling a Band Saw 

The Bench. To level a band saw lay it on a bench, 
inside resting on leveling block perfectly true. With the 
straight edge, about lo inches to 12 inches, start at the 
braze or chalk mark on the saw, taking a portion about 
three feet long, or the length of your leveling block, and go 
over it very carefully, pounding down the high places only, 
or places where you may find small lumps. After going the 
entire length of the saw, should there be any places where 
daylight can be seen under straight edge, take saw and hang 
it over the rack which is above your filing bench, so as to 
have the outside of blade rest against the leveling block. 
Start again at the braze or chalk mark and go over the 
entire length of the saw the same as on the other side, being 
careful not to hammer too heavily, as it will cause extra 
work on the other side again. 

Using Straight Edge. After having the saw perfectly 
level on both sides, lay it down again on the bench in 
the former position, take straight edge six feet long and 
lay it against the back of saw. Should the straight edge 
rock on the saw, mark the places where the straight edge 
rocked going over the entire length of saw in this manner. 
Should it be an even convex or crown on the back the full 
distance of the blade, and not be too great a crown, it 
would be advisable to fit the saw in this manner. We should 
not recommend a greater crown than -^ to -^^ inch in six 
feet. Should a low place be found on the back, which will 
fall away from your straight edge, mark the low place for 
the full distance. Then start with roll, beginning at one 
end of chalk mark in the centre of blade, and roll one deep 
roll through centre of saAV the full distance of chalk mark, 
then go I inch or i^ inch to the side next chalk mark also 

26 



I inch to the other side, but go very lightly. Again, go 
r inch farther at the edge where chalk mark is and take 
another roll. Continue this onto the edge, rolling evenly. 
By the time the last roll is taken along the edge where the 
chalk mark is, the hollow places will become straight and 
lie close to the straight edge. Should the straight edge 
rock too much, or the back be too high at points, continue 
a like performance on the side of plate opposite the high 
places. 

Uneven Brazes. In straightening uneven brazes in 
saws, it is always best to first place the roll in centre and 
work to the edge, rather than start at the edge and go to 
the centre, for, in working from the centre to the edge of 
the blade the filer can follow much closer with the tension 
gauge the exact amount of tension he has in the blade, 
whereas, in working from the edge to the centre, it is very 
difficult to keep track of the tension being put in. 

Straight Edge. The straight edge should be a piece of 
steel from lo inches to 12 inches long, about 15 or 16 gauge, 
and about i3^ inch wide. It can be made the same width 
all the way along, or it can be made wider in the centre and 
taper at each end, which is much more convenient to han- 
dle. The filer should always have what is known as a 
"try gauge," so as to be able to fit the straight edge as it 
wears, which it naturally will, being drawn over the saw 
many times a day. For dressing the straight edge, it is 
advisable to use a mill file, and draw it very carefully along 
the full length of the steel so as not to make lumps and 
hollows. 

Tension Gauge. The tension gauge is made in some- 
what the same manner as a straight edge, with the exception 
of the edges, which are convexed and concaved. A tension 
gauge should be from 40 to 45 degrees convex on one side, 
and concave on the other in like manner, so that when the 

27 



saw is raised witli the left hand to position which is cus- 
tomaiy in trying tension gauge on a saw, the convex side 
of the gauge should fit the proper tension in the blade. 

Even Tension. In like manner to concave a saw, when 
saw is bent down by tight hand to about the same angle 
as it was raised up, the saw will also fit the concave side of 
the straight edge, thus giving the filer absolute assurance 
that the blade is tensioned perfectly even on both sides. 

In tension gauges, the same as in straight edges, the 
filer should always have a try gauge, and be very careful 
to see that the tension gauge is kept perfectly true with the 
same circle on both ends, so as not to have more tension 
on one side of the saw than on the other. If this is followed 
up carefully, it is much easier for a filer to test his tension 
and to see when he has the proper amount in the saw, for 
many filers make hard work for themselves in having im- 
proper tension gauges. 

Adjusting Automatic Grinder. An automatic 
grinder should be set so that the saw when on the machine 
is parallel with the bench. If there is plenty of room in 
the filing room, it would be wise to set the grinder some 
10 or 12 feet from the bench so as to allow plenty of room 
for turning the saw. It is always preferable to set the 
grinder so that it will be inside of the saw when grinding. 
In this manner there may be considerable room saved. 

When the saw is hung on the wheels, have the wheels 
high enough so that saw will just rest lightly on the 
guard and one standard. If the saw rests on both the 
standards and guard bad work will result, so there should 
be a little clearance between the front standard and the 
guard. This will permit the saw to lie on the guard and 
the standard opposite the machine when the saw is pass- 
ing through. Saw should run through the automatic 
grinder easy enough so as not to bind, at the same time 

28 



being tight and stilT enough so that when the finger 
releases the teeth it will not slip back, therefore overcoming 
any danger of spoiling the teeth. 

Cams. Grinders have a variety of cams for ditlerent 
shaped teeth, and if a filer is careful in selecting the proper 
cam, it will enable him to keep the proper shape of tooth on 
his saw with little difiiculty. There are a number of filers 
who have considerable trouble keeping the proper shape of 
tooth on saw, and it is principally due to not having the 
proper cam on the grinder. 

The finger should always be carefully watched so as to 
press the teeth at the same point all the time, thereby 
making an equal and uniform back on teeth. 

Use of Grinder. With little practice and close obser- 
vation, filers will get to use a grinder with a great deal of 
satisfaction. The improper use of a grinder will soon 
make an uneven breast on the saw, while, on the other 
hand, if a grinder is working perfectly, a saw may be kept 
perfectly straight and sharp without the use of a file, which 
is preferable. No matter how accurate a filer may be in 
filing a saw by hand, there is nothing so accurate as a 
machine, and if a saw can be finished up on a grinder to 
go on the mill, it is bound to be more perfect than when it 
is fitted up by hand. 

Filing Clamp. The filing clamp should be set either 
on the side the grinder is on, or the opposite side, as the 
hand of the saw may require. It is always preferable to 
work on the outside of the saw, this giving more room. 
However, it depends wholly on the light in the filing room 
as to what position to work at filing clamp. Filing clamps 
are used principally to clamp the saw while swaging and 
shaping. 

Swaging and Shaping. In swaging a saw, start as 
far back on one side as possible where the saw is straight. 

29 



Mark a tooth to start on, and after the saw is clamped 
tightly in vise, swage the distance of the saw as far as 
possible without swaging over a wheel, or where a saw is 
bent out of a straight line. After going this distance 
take the shaper and follow up the swaging. See to it that 
the shaper is held down tight to the teeth all the time, so as 
to go over every tooth the same way. In swaging and 
shaping band saws great care should be taken that the dies 
of swages and shapers are kept in perfect shape all the time 
so as to fit the teeth without springing the steel in any one 
way, as there are a lot of corners and points of saws 
broken off by improperly shaped dies and anvils of swages. 



30 



CHAPTER VI 

Brazing a Band Saw 

The Braze. For brazing, band saws should first be 
lapped about % inch on each end for 19 gauge saws. Lap 
should be increased in length about j^ inch for each gauge 
heavier. Laps should be ground accurate in width and 
taper and should be a straight bevel running to nearly a 
sharp edge. 

The lap should be well cleaned of oil and grease. 
"Brazine" a preparation sold by Simonds Manufacturing 
Co., is recommended for this purpose. 

Position. Be careful in placing the saw in position in 
the clamps, so when the final pressure is applied with the 
hot irons the laps will come together in proper position. 

In brazing, the saw is placed between the clamps. A 
piece of silver solder cut to the same size as the laps, is 
placed between the laps. The silver solder should also be 
cleaned in "Brazine" before being used. Heat the irons 
to a good cherry red, scrape off all scale, and place them on 
either side of the laps. Then, pull the clamps tight. 
Three-eights inch irons are used for gauges lighter than 
19 gauge; 3^ inch irons for 19 to 16 gauge; ^ inch irons 
for heavier than 16 gauge. 

Heavy Irons. The heavier irons for the heavier saws 
are such that the extra volume of heat contained in them is 
sufficient to prevent the heavier saws from cooling too 
quickly. 

In our observation in mills, we find frequently that saws 
crack in close proximity to the joint. On examination we 
find that part "fast" at or near the location of the crack. 

Pressing Joint. Pressing the joint properly is the 
most difficult part to learn of the entire task. The method 
to follow in this is hard to describe. During the process of 



brazing, the hot irons liold the saw so tightly that there is 
no room for expansion under their pressure. Outside the 
irons (as far as the heat extends) expansion has free play, 
and shows in lumps on either side of the joint, which is now 
the contracted or fast part. Therefore, after brazing, roll 
the braze from centre to edges until saw lies flat or nearly 
so. 

Tensioning Braze. Tension the brazes with a roll as 
much as possible and only use the hammer to level down 
the lumps and to take out cross lumps as the roll is much 
easier on the braze. Then dress both sides with file, being 
careful not to file too much and make the saw thin at the 
braze. 

Avoid unnecessary work. Have a reason for every blow. 
Try to put it in the right place every time. The joint is 
now an integral part of the saw, and will stand as much as 
any other portion. This is a test for the quality of your 
work — let it be good or bad. 

Thickness. The joint having been perfectly flat trim 
it to even thickness. Great care should be taken in filing 
the lap, not to make it too thin, as this is the cause of a 
great deal of trouble regarding brazes cracking. Then 
adjust the tension and breast according to instructions 
already given. 

Be a close observer, and let each joint, straightened and 
adjusted, be an object lesson in the tensibility of the steel. 



32 



CHAPTER VII 

How to Tension a Band Saw 

Tension. The tensioning of band saws is an important 
matter. The longer the experience and practice one has, 
the more perfect he becomes. In starting in, one should 
always begin right and in doing so it will be much easier 
to follow the right course. 

In beginning the operation of tensioning a band saw, lay 
the saw on the bench. Take a straight edge and go over 
the saw the entire length, and see that there are no small 
lumps, also have saw perfectly level. Then place saw in 
rolls, starting at the braze. Roll directly in the centre the 
entire length of the saw. When this is accomplished shift 
the roll I inch to one side and go around the entire length 
of the saw as described. Then place the roll i inch the 
other side of the centre going the entire length of the saw, 
and so on working from the centre to the edges, not going 
any closer to the edge than 1 3^ inch, leaving what is com- 
monly known as the tire or strain line on the toothed edge. 
On resaws i6, 17 and 18 gauge the tire strain Hne should 
be about i inch and when the gauge is 19, 20 and 21 a 
^ inch tire is sufficient. 

Uneven Tension. Should the tension be uneven in 
the saw, it is not advisable to go all the length of the saw 
with the roll but just over the fast places. Roll very 
lightly at first until perfectly acquainted with the hardness 
of the plate, as the tension is much more difficult to take 
out then to put in. Should there be too much tension in 
saw, run the roll lightly around each edge of the saw about 
I or i3^ inch from the edge. This should be done very 
carefully though, as one is liable to take out too much of the 
tension and make the strain line of the saw too loose. 

33 



Use of Roll. If proper care is used in handling the 
roll, it will save the filer considerable work on the block 
with the hammer, as the saw can be very easily dished one 
way or another with the roll, thereby causing considerable 
leveling that could otherwise be avoided. 

Circle. The circle of the tension in an ordinary band 
saw should conform to a 40 or 45 foot circle; that is, a 
tension gauge, convexed to a 40 or 45 foot circle, should fit 
to conform to the declension or "drop" of the blade, when 
tested as shown in Fig. 10. This is about the average 
tension used in all mills with flat wheels. Any more 
tension than this is liable to give great trouble by cracking 
as the tensile is too great on the strain or tire line therefore 
cracking while running over the wheel. 

Flat on Wheels. The saw when strained on the band 
wheels, should be nearly flat all across the wheel, but 
strained a little heavier on the toothed edge than at any 
other part. Saws that rest too heavily on each side, and 
rise up in the centre from the wheel, do not do as good work 
as a saw that is nearly flat, as the body of the saw is not 
stiff enough to hold the teeth in a straight line, thereby 
allowing them to lead one way or the other. This strain 
is not secured by adjustment of the wheels, but through 
lenghtening the back of the saw -^ or -^ of an inch in 6 
feet. This is the reason the average filer runs a long 
back saw. 

Unequal Tension. Unequal tension is the cause of 
much trouble and breakage, but, as one gains in experience, 
it is easily remedied. The saw may work well at first, and 
yet every time it is used or filed, its tension may be 
altered, perhaps not to any great extent while the saw is at 
work, but the inequalities can be very easily detected by 
the use of the tension gauge. Constant care and watch- 
fulness will teach the need of a little "touching up" here 

34 . 



and there, as the case may require. It is in this way, line 
upon line, that one gradually becomes master of his work. 

Use of Tension Gauge. For the benefit of the few 
who are not acquainted with the use of the tension gauge, 
a brief explanation of its use in connection with the adjust- 
ment of band saws is timely and important. 

When the speed of the band saw was increased to 10,000 
feet per minute, together with the increased feed, it was 
found that in order to have the saw stand the increased 
tensile strain, it was necessary to have a deep, well regulated 
tension. Loose tension beyond a certain degree will carry 
down the "fast" places so they cannot be detected by the 
straight edge. With the tension gauge, which is convex 
to fit the amount of tension in saw, the most minute 
portions of "fast" can be located. By using the tension 
gauge under pressure it will show up the loose and fast 
places much more distinctly than by holding it loosely. 

Tension Gauge. The form of a tension gauge may be 
seen by reference to Fig. 12. The edge"B" is convex, by 



the use of which is secured a uniform tension. The sweep 
of the convex edge, fitting the declension, is governed by 
the amount of tension the saw is found to need. The 
convex side should always fit the depth the saw dishes or 
drops when bent to test the tension, as shown in Fig. 8. 

To Level Saw. To level, place the saw in position for 
rolling, mark the saw and begin by knocking down the 
lumps, both "long-face" and "short-face." This done, 
take the tension level in your right hand, place your left 

35 



under the blade, raising it to nearly the height of your 
shoulder, and place the tension level squarely across the 
blade at arms' length, as shown in Fig. 8. The "fast" 
portions will lie closely to the gauge, and show in about the 
same manner as a lump shows under the straight edge when 
the saw is lying flat. Now proceed according to instruc- 
tions on page i8. You cannot turn the saw over as you 
would a short piece, therefore be careful and not hammer 
too much so as to drive the saw through. 

Hammer Short Lumps. This is the time to exercise 
qualities of perception and memory, for when you have gone 
around the saw on one side, take the other, and again using 
the straight edge begin at the joint or chalk mark and 
hammer down all the short lumps and high places as nearly 
as you can in like amount on the other side. 

Rolling. To make the tension less or stiffer, roll gently 
on the extreme edges of the saw, wherever this is needed. 
To put in more tension (to "open up") roll on the inner 
portions of the blade. (See instructions on tension, 

page 33-) 

Breast. Uneven breast is indicated by hollow and high 
places — not by uneven width. Blades may have parallel 
edges, but, not being in a straight line, cause a lateral 
movement when the saw is in motion, thus presenting an 
uneven and everchanging cutting front. To draw these 
places out straight, take a long straight edge, six feet long 
(this is a convenient — one shorter than this would be too 
short) or we would recommend a concave back level, the 
same length, ^ or -^ of an inch hollow as desired; — place 
it against the back edge of the saw, locate the point most out 
of line, making a chalk mark on the opposite side to where 
the straight edge rocks. After marking the entire length 
of the saw, you may find that it has one continuous bend. 
This is a condition necessary in a great many cases. That 

36. 



is, the back edge should be a trifle longer than the toothed 
edge, but it should be uniformly so throughout the entire 
length of the blade, and our experience teaches us that the 
crown of the back should not exceed -^ (we would recom- 
mend about ^) of an inch in six feet. If you find it does 
exceed this amount, or the amount which your mill seems 
to require, roll fom one end of the blade to the other, 
working carefully no matter which course you take. Begin 
at the edge on the hollow side of the plate, rolling gently 
from edge to centre. By this means, with care, altering 
the tension may be avoided. 



37 



'v3-' 








38 



CHAPTER VIII 

Band Saw Speed and Strain 

Speed. The speed at which a band saw should run 
depends on the kind of timber to be sawed and the amount 
of work it is required to do. When a band saw has to deal 
with both soft and hard woods it is an advantage if means 
are provided to vary the speed at which it runs. For cut- 
ting the softest materials, such as unseasoned pine, bass 
wood, etc., a maximum speed of 10,000 feet per minute 
is considered reasonable. For seasoned softwood, and 
unseasoned comparatively hard wood, such as oak, gum, 
etc., a speed of 10,000 feet per minute is recommended by 
many experts. For maple, hickory or other comparatively 
seasoned hardwood a speed of 8,000 feet per minute has 
been considered sufficient. In cutting seasoned hardwood 
and unseasoned exceedingly hard wood, a saw speed of 
7,000 feet per minute is adopted by many mills. 

Strain. When the strain of a band saw is required or it 
is desired to know how much weight to put on the lever 
when the strain is known, the accompanying sketch and 
table will be found useful. The illustration shows the 
weights hung on the lever of a typical mill and these are 
designed as A. The point B is known as the fulcrum, 
and C the point where the end of the lever acts urpon the 
vertical shaft supporting the saw, wheels and bearings. 
The diagram is used for easy solution of the problem as 
follows: the distance A-B is, we will assume 48 inches, 
and the distance B-C is i3^inch. Thus as in the simple 
leverage formula, weight times 48 is equal to the unknown 
resistance (or strain) at C times 1 3^ inch. In other words 
they must balance which means the lever mustbehorizontal. 
If 48 times weight equals 13^2 times the resistance or strain, 
then this strain is equal to the weight times 48, divided by 
the distance i}/2- 

39 



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40 



Number Pounds. The table is used when it is required 
to know the number of pounds to put on a lever, assuming 
that there is but one lever or two that merge into one, and 
also that the weight of boxes and wheel is counterbalanced. 

From the table it will be seen that 6,000 lbs. is required 
for a 10 inch; 15 gauge saw. We have, using the simple 
leverage formula again, 6,000 times i3^ is equal to 48 
times the weights. Then the weights are equal to 6,000 
times i}/2, divided by 48, or 9,000 divided by 48 or 1873/^ 
lbs. the weight required to give the necessary strain on the 
saw. 



41 



CHAPTER IX 

The Band Saw Mill 

Wheel Face. The face of band mill wheels for single- or 
double-cut mills should be perfectly flat, or as nearly so as 
possible, as this is a very essential thing in the accuracy of 
saws running, and in the life of band saws, there should 
be especial attention paid to this to see that the wheels are 
kept in perfect condition. It is advisable to turn the face 
of band wheels at least once a year, and, if possible, twice. 
There is not much to grind off of them in that time, and 
they can always be kept true, for a band wheel will some- 
times get out of true with ordinary use. lif great care is 
taken in this, it will save the filer a lot of extra work on 
saws, and also save a great many dollars' worth of saws. 

Adjustment. The adjustment of a band mill is 
another very essential thing. If a mill is not in good 
plumb, or in true line, no matter how good a mill, or how 
well it is built, it is impossible to do good work. 

In setting up a band mill, it should be set plumb, or as 
nearly so as it is possible, with the V carriage track, so that 
when the mill is complete and the saw put on, it will hang 
perfectly parallel with the track. Unless this is the case, 
it is impossible for a band saw to cut true lumber as you 
cannot lead a band saw with the guides. The head 
blocks on a carriage should be set perfectly true, and 
parallel with both track and saw. It is advisable in lining 
head blocks, to measure the distance from the teeth of 
the saw to each head block, as the carriage may be run 
slowly along the track. In doing this, the head blocks will 
all be the same distance from the saw as when passing. 

Steel Faced Pulleys. Crystallization of a band saw 
is caused in various ways. Saws running on and off steel 
face pulleys at a rapid rate will have a tendency to crystal- 

42 



lize the blade. Saws running through guides have a 
tendency to crystallize. Slivers, sawdust, or any fibre of 
that kind getting between the saw and the side of the log, 
also have a tendency to crystallize the steel to some extent. 
Band saws are more frequently crystallized by the use of 
improper metal in the guides, or by the guides being improp- 
erly set. 

Great care should be taken when a band saw is strained 
on the mill and running, that it runs perfectly free, does 
not oscillate or vibrate, and is perfectly parallel with the 
carriage track. This being closely watched, and the mill, 
saws, and carriage kept in perfect line, it will relieve the 
filer or operator of a lot of unnecessary work. Get your 
two wheels in line and keep them in line. Then use your 
tilt to adjust your saw and not your crossline. 

Care in Handling. We trust that this will be of 
helpful assistance to mill owners and operators, as we feel 
it has been to us. We would suggest in conclusion that 
band saw operators take great care, and exercise patience, 
in the handling and manipulation of band saws, as we 
have always found it is much better to go very slowly at 
the start until one knows perfectly the surrounding condi- 
tions, and we believe it is better to go slowly in experiment- 
ing in new ideas, until fully accomplished in the care of saw. 

Guides. The guides through which the saw runs, 
should be of frictionless material, such as Babbitt metal, 
or something of this kind. We would recommend a very 
hard wood such as lignum vitae, which contains lubricating 
properties, and should not rest tightly against the saw 
when strained, but should have clearance enough to hold 
the saw from running in or out of the cut, but not to bind 
it, as this would be the means of case-hardening or crystal- 
lizing the steel more quickly than by any other possible 
means. 

43 



Guard. The guard, or what is known as the back 
guide, for a band mill, should be used only as a safeguard 
against running the saw off the back of the wheel but it 
never should be set up so that the saw will run against it. 
If in any way the saw may run back against the back guide 
and crystallize or case-harden, it is advisable to take an 
old piece of emery wheel, while the saw is in motion, and 
hold it tightly on the back for some minutes, turning it 
around to make the back of the blade perfectly round and 
true, and at the same time taking out the case-hardening 
or crystallization that may have been put in by running 
heavily on the back guide. This will be found to prevent 
cracks. 



44 



CHAPTER X 

Fitting and Running Small Band 

Saws 

Small Bands. The breakage of small bands in wood- 
working plants is the source of much annoyance to the 
operators of such plants. Among the most frequent 
causes of breakage we name the following: the use of 
saws unsuitable gauge for the work; the use of an improper 
arrangement for giving the saw the required strain on the 
wheel; not slacking saw after use, thus preventing the free 
contraction of saw blades on cooling down (they should 
always be left a trifle slack when not in motion); the joint 
not being the same thickness as the rest of the blade; the 
back guide being too close, so that the saw is constantly 
rubbing against it, consequently case-hardening the back 
of saw, and cracking it. The back guide should never be so 
close that the saw will come in contact with it. It Is only 
placed there as a matter of precaution, and when the saw 
will not stay on the wheel without being held there with 
the back guide, there is trouble somewhere, which should 
be located and corrected. 

Saws should never be filed to sharp corners at gullets; 
they should always be rounded out with a round file or 
emery wheel. 

Working dull saws, feeding work onto the saw beyond its 
cutting capacity, allowing the sawdust to collect on the face 
of wheel, thus causing it to become lumpy and uneven, 
stopping or starting a machine too suddenly — especially 
when using a light blade — will almost certainly snap a saw 
in two. 

Wheel Covering. When a covered wheel is used, it 
should be frequently examined to see that it is perfectly 
true on the face, as a covered wheel is much more liable 

45 



to get out of true than a solid one. We think leather is 
preferable to rubber, as it can be trued very easily by, 
turning. I 

Saws should be frequently breasted to keep them per- 
fectly true on the toothed edge, and the teeth of uniform 
depth. For ripping, the teeth should be filed perfectly 
straight across; but where rip and cut-off work are both 
done on the same saw, it is well to file the teeth a trifle 
flemming. Run as narrow a set as possible, but always 
have enough to clear the plate and prevent it from binding 
in the cut, as this would surely cause the saw to crack. 
Softor pithy timber requires more set than timber that 
is free from pitch. Hard wood requires the least of any. 

Full Swage. All band saws having teeth of sufficient 
size to admit of swaging, should be fitted full swage. 
There are many kinds of swages used for this class of saw 
fitting, and with due care any of them can be used with very 
good results. The bar and hammer, and the upset have, 
however, almost entirely gone out of use in the swaging of 
band saws, except where the upset is used in connection 
with other swages of the roller style. We think every band 
saw filer should have one, as they are very useful in case 
the saw runs onto a stone or gravel, and a little more 
spread is needed than can be obtained by one operation of 
the roller swage. In a case of this kind the upset can be 
used to good advantage by placing it on the point of tooth, 
when, with a few light blows of a hammer, the point of 
tooth can be spread a little, and, at the same time made 
thicker. Thus one application of the roller swage will draw 
the point of the tooth out sufficiently to give a good full 
swage. The saw should be kept perfectly true on the cut- 
ting edge, and the points of uniform width throughout. 
To regulate the width of points, we recommend the use of a 
"shaper," as it gives a better and more uniform shape to 
the teeth. (See cuts of section of band saw teeth). 

46 





H. I. J. K. 

Referring to the sketches H, I, J, and K, which illus- 
trate full swage, the tooth marked "H" represents the 
ideal shape, both in swaging and side-dressing. The cut- 
ting edge of the tooth only should come in contact with the 
wood, and this cutting edge should have clearance both 
downward and backward from the point. This double 
clearance can be more properly secured by using a swage 
shaper. 

Tooth "J" represents a point improperly side-dressed, 
the swage running too far down the face of the tooth, and 
not having the necessary amount of clearance. 

Tooth "K" represents tooth "J" after striking gravel 
or some hard substance, by which part of the corner was 
knocked off, leaving the swage widest below the cutting 
point. In fact, it bulges out in such a manner as to con- 
stantly rub and crowd against the side of the cut, raking the 
timber and leaving bad ridges upon it. This also causes 
the saw to be crowded out of line. 

Side Dressed. An examination of cuts "H" and "I" 
illustrating a tooth properly side-dressed and before and 
after striking gravel, will show that, although part of the 
clearance has been removed, there is yet enough left to 
prevent the body of swage from rubbing. This demon- 
strates that the points of teeth at all times should have 
ample clearance, so that nothing but the extreme point can 
possibly come in contact with the wood. On the other 
hand, they should be sufficiently stout so as not to crumble 
off in striking a hard knot. 

This cut illustrates some forms of teeth used in band, 
gang and band re-saws. Any of the up-to-date saw 
sharpeners can be readily adapted to produce them. 

47 



Band Re-Saws. Factories and wood working shops 
use small band saws for resawing boards or plank, and these 
saws require the same treatment as large band saws except 
■ in cases where they are less than 3 inches in width. Then 
they will require little if any tension. A full swage should 
be used on all rip saws, but saws for cross-cut work should 
be spring set. Care should be taken to spring the teeth 
very close to the point and keep the outside corner full 
and sharp. When dressing, bevel a little to the outside. 

It is evident that the band resaw is a saw well worth the 
consideration of any millman. The advantage of band 
resaws in saw mills result from the fact that the modern 
saw mill machinery must be adapted to saw lumber to the 
best advantage. Gangs have been used extensively, but 
as now all grades of logs are sawed at once it is evident that 
a mode of sawing which would be suitable for one would 
ruin another. The log band saw is extensively used be- 
cause it has a large advantage over the circular saw in the 
saving of saw kerf, and in a like manner the band resaw 
effects a saving as compared to all other methods. For 
saw mill use the band resaw is usually placed behind the 
log mill or between it and the edge, and as the large mill 
saws two or three inch planks, the resaw converts them into 
inch boards. A band resaw should handle the stock before 
it is edged, so that in sawing stock from the side of the log 
each board may be edged as wide as possible. Blades as 
thin as 20 to 24 gauge are being used on resaw mills for cer- 
tain kinds of work. This results in a saving of power 
necessary to drive the saw. High temper and tough steel 
is necessary in band resaws and skillful workmanship is 
essential in fitting them. Methods for fitting log bands 
saws apply in general to the resaw. 

48 



Repairing Cracks. There are various methods used 
for punching band saw cracks to prevent them going 
through the saw, but one plan which appears to be used 
with success is the use of a chisel that makes a straight cut 
in the saw. In order to avoid the crystallized steel, which 
is always at the bottom the cut or punch should be made 
about ^ inch below the crack. 




Fig. No. 13 
The idea is to form a new front edge on the saw, instead 
of the cracked edge (See Fig. 13). Naturally, a straight 
front edge will hold better than any other kind. Grind the 
little chisel straight first, then round the corners off after- 
wards. The incision should be from M to ^ inch long. 
Be sure to punch through from both sides, to separate the 
crystallized steel and the crack from the new front edge, 
then finish by punching lightly from the outside, to make 
the cut show clear. Then treat this new edge the same as 
the bottom of the throats on all the rest of the front edge of 
the saw. 




Fig. No. 14 

Cracks in band resaws may be prevented to a great 
extent by compressing the steel at the bottom of each 

49 



throat, all the way around the saw, with the sharp clamp 
screws of a large band or circular swage. Remove the die 
and anvil and fit a suitably-shaped piece of steel into the 
slot of the swage block, to cause the clamp screws to strike 
every throat, as shown in Fig. 14. Now go all around the 
saw, compressing the steel enough to take out some of the 
tension, then retension and readjust the back of the saw. 
You will find this will make a saw hold tension much better 
and there will be very few cracks, unless there is something 
seriously wrong in the conditions the saw has to contend 
with. 

When half of the compressed spot has been ground away, 
repeat the operation again, otherwise the saw may start 
losing tension too fast again, and crack. With this method 
the filer can carry the tension closer to the front edge, more 
tension, and more crown on the back, if desired, without 
cracks. 

When the tension is down in a saw it is always well to 
compress the throats before tensioning. It stands to 
reason that if the strain is relieved on the extreme front 
edge the steel is better able to stand it a little farther back. 
Some have tried to do this work by striking the bottom of 
each gullet with a hammer, but failed because the semi- 
circular grooves pressed into the steel by the sharp clamp 
screws are essential to success. 

A small resaw swage is entirely too weak. A large swage 
or a specially constructed tool, must be used. The rings 
at the ends of the screws should be nearly sharp, to make a 
good impression. Work the live screw on the outside of 
the saw, oiling the saw first. A saw is not so apt to crack 
from case-hardening in the throats while the half rings are 
there. Old cracks are also held much better by this com- 
pression method. 



50 



I 



CHAPTER XI 

Safety First with Small Band Saws 

Kinking. Accidents most common on band saws are 
those resulting where the stock is not securely held, with a 
consequent kinking and breaking of the saw. Severe 
injury often results from accidents brought about by the 
operator trying to remove waste pieces near the saw with 
the hand, or attempting to stop the wheel with hand, foot 
or stick when the power is shut off; attempting to adjust the 
gauge when the saw is running or the band flying off unpro- 
tected wheels in case of breakage. Other accidents are due 
to workmen's clothing becoming caught in the spokes or on 
the band of an unprotected wheel. Accidents are frequent 
through the carelessness of the operator getting his hand 
against the saw at the rear of the table, or sometimes get- 
ting the hands and head above the portion of the saw over 
the gauge. 

Prevention. Safety engineers agree that practically 
all of these accidents can be prevented by enclosing the 
upper and lower wheels with either a wire mesh guard or a 
solid enclosure; also the cutting edge of the saw above the 
table at the rear, as well as that part above the guide. 
Guards should be provided for every kind of saw in the 
mill, as well as belting, gearing, set screws, shafting and 
drums. A blower system for the removal of dust and 
odors from the mill should be provided and emery wheels 
and tool grinders should be protected by guards. Auto- 
matic shifters for throwing belts on and off are also 
safety devices which should be considered. 

Danger. Any saw regardless of size is dangerous. 
The numerous small saws of different kinds used in the 
average woodworking plant are often a greater menace than 
are the larger saws in the mills. Every precaution possible 



should be taken by the operator of small saws to prevent , 
injury to the careless or reckless, of whom there are many 
in factories and mills of all kinds. In many states factory 
inspection laws require certain safeguards on woodworking 
appliances. 



i 



^ 



52 



SIMONDS 
Saw Steel Products 

It will be of interest to know that we manufacture a 
complete line of — 

Wide Band Saws 

Narrow Band Saws 

Circular Saws 

Inserted Tooth Saws 

Gang Saws 

Drag Saws 

Metal Cutting Cold Saws 

Hack Saw Blades 

Files 

Cross-Cut Saws 

Hand Saws 

Planer Knives 

High Speed Steel Knives 

Flat Steel Special Plates 

Details regarding any of the above or our complete 
catalog sent free on request to any of our ofhces — see 
addresses on page 64. 



S3 



Styles of Teeth in Wide Band Saws 



On the three following pages are shown our standard shapes of teeth for Wide 
Band Saws, and the table below shows the die numbers which we use for saws of 
different widths and gauges. 





Gauge 


Distance from Point to Point of Teeth. 


Width 


%,%,% 


] in. 


3V4 in. 


iViin. 


l%in. 


2in. 


2y4in. 


2>^in. 


2% in. 


3in. 


3% in. 


2 

2| 

3 


18-21 
18-21 
18-21 


2 
2 
2 


*13orl6 
*13 or 16 
*13 or 16 


*13or 16 
*13 or 16 
*13 or 16 


15 
15 
15 
















31 
4 


18-21 
17-21 
17-21 


2 


*1 


3 or 


16 


*13 or 16 
*13 or 16 
*13 or 16 


15 
15 
15 


15 
15 














5 
6 


17-21 
17-21 
17-21 










*13 or 16 
*13 or 16 
*13 or 16 


15 
15 
15 


15 
15 
15 














6 

7 
7 


17-18 

17-18 

16 










16 
16 
15 


15 
15 

48 


15 
15 

47 














8 
8 
9 


15 

16 

17-18 


:: 
















48 

48 
47 


49 
47 

47 














9 
9 

10 


14-15 
16-17 
14-15 


















48 
48 
48 


49 
47 
49 


50 
50 


50 
50 










10 
11 
11 


16-17 

14-15 

16 


















48 
48 
48 


47 
49 

47 


50 


50 










12 
12 
13 


13-14 
15-16 
12-14 


... 
















48 
48 
48 


49 
49 
49 


50 
50 


50 
50 


55 
55 








14 
15 
16 


12-14 
12-13 
12-13 


















48 


49 


50 
50 
50 


50 
50 
50 


55 
55 
55 


57 
57 


61 
61 


60 
60 


17 
18 


12-13 
12-13 






















50 
50 


50 
50 


55 
55 


57 
57 


61 
61 


60 
60 



*Die No. 13 is for Spring Set and Die No. 16 is for Swage Set. 

54 



Simonds Band Saws 

The illustrations herewith show spacing and depth of teeth, also patterns or die numbers 
eonimonly used. When ordering please refer to style tooth wanted. 




55 



Simonds Band Saws 

The illustrations herewith show spacing and depth of teeth, also patterns or die numbers 
commonly used. When ordering please refer to style tooth wanted. 




Simonds Band Saws 

The illustrations herewith show spacing and depth of teeth, also patterns or die numbers 
commonly used. When ordering please refer to style tooth wanted. 




Wide Band Saws 




THE SIMONDS BAND & 







BRAZED AND FITTED 



Width 


Usual Gauge 


Price per Foot 


2 incli 

3 " 


18 to 20 
18 to 20 
18 to 20 


$1.00 
1.20 
1.40 


3* " 
4 " 
4i " 


18 to 20 
17 to 19 
17 to 19 


1.60 
2.00 
2.20 


5 " 

6 " 


17 to 19 
17 to 19 
17 to 19 


2.40 
2.70 
3.00 


7 " 

8 " 

9 " 


16 to 18 
14 to 16 
14 to 16 


3.40 
3.80 
4.30 


10 " 

11 " 

12 " 


14 to 16 
14 to 16 
13 to 15 


4.80 
5.40 
6.00 


13 " 

14 " 

15 " 


13 to 15 
13 to 15 
12 to 14 


7.20 

8.40 

10.20 


16 " 

17 " 

18 " 


12 to 14 
12 to 14 
12 to 14 


12.00 
16.80 
21.60 



Saws of odd widths, not listed, take price of next wider size listed. 

For saws of heavier gauge than' listed add 5 per cent tx) list for each gauge 
lieavicT. 

No extra charge for saws one or two gauges thinner than list; wlien more than 
two gauges thinner, add 5 per cent to list for each gauge. 

Double Edge Band Saws. List price per foot, all widths, advance 10 per 
cent over list prices of single edge saws as above. 

Toothed Blanks. Same price as finished saws. 

Band Saw Blanks. Bright, of any width, furnished to order, but not 
warranted. 



Si 



Simonds Narrow Band Saws 




SPECIAL NOTICE. — Narrow Band Saws are furnished Set and Filed, 
but not Brazed. 



Width, Inches 


Usual Gauge 


Number of Teeth to Inch 


Price per Foot 


1 


2^ or 23 


Gor7 


$0.13 


A 


21 or 22 


6 


.13 


1 


21 or 22 


5 or 6 


.13 


f 


21 or 22 


4 or 5 


.14 


h 


21 or 22 


3J or4 


.15 




20 or 21 


3-3 § or 4 


.16 


3 


20 or 21 


2|or3 


.18 


J 


20 or 21 


2|or3 


.20 


1 


20 or 21 


i" or 1" pt. to pt. 


.22 


li 


19 or 20 


2" cr §" pt. to pt. 


.24 


u 


19 or 20 


5" s" or 1" pt. to pt. 


.26 


11 


19 or 20 


i" I" or f " pt. to pt. 


.28 


U 


19 or 20 


1" or 11" pt. to pt. 


.32 


H 


19 or 20 


l"or li"pt. topt. 


.38 



Above prices cover Saws Set and Filed but not Brazed. 
If not Filed and Set, deduct 4 cents per foot. 

Brazing — Vito]^ in-. 50 cents each; %\.o}i in., 60 cents; 1 to \\i in.. 70 cents; \^ to 
IM in- 80 cents. 



59 



Brazing Lamp 







A popular lamp with saw fitters. Produces a hot 
pointed flame. Excellent for brazing and other work for 
which a common blow torch is used. 



Band Saw Brazing Clamp and Tongs 

This design of Clamp and Tongs is generally used on 
narrow band saw work. 




60 



Saw Makers' Tools 

Anvil, Hammers and Straight Edges 




Circular and Band Saw Anvils made with cast steel 
face, hardened and polished. Saw Makers' Hammers of 
fine steel. Straight Edges of popular design. 



Saw Swages 




Simonds Swages are correctly constructed and used 
extensively. They are designed for shaping the point of 
the tooth, squaring up the cutting edge, and giving body 
to the swage point. Prices furnished on request. 



6i 



Simonds Blue Ribbon Hand Saws 



Highest 
Quality and 
Finish of 
Blade 
and 
Handle 




Accurately Ground 

and Tapered 

made of Simonds 

edge-holding steel 



Ask your Hardware Dealer 

62 



^ 



Simonds Hack Saws 




^Rs^a's^^P3^NP^sN^s^iJ^J^^y^^;NN^ 



Simonds Hard Edge Hack Saw Blades are the most 
economical because they cut fast, remove less metal and 
outwear other makes. When properly used they do not 
break. The steel in these blades is toughened by a special 
Simonds process. 



Simonds Files 




These are high grade files for use around the mill. 
They are subjected to rigid tests. The Simonds Cross- 
cut File is especially designed for filing cross-cut saws. 



63 



Simonds Manufacturing Company 

Fitchburg, Mass. 

17th Street and Western Avenue 90 West Broadway 

Chicago, 111. New York City 

402 Occidental Avenue 85 First Street 

Seattle, Wash. Portland, Oregon 

239 Court Avenue 
Memphis, Tenn. 

420 Canal Street 12-14 Natoma Street 

New Orleans, La. San Francisco, California 

Simonds Canada Saw Company, Ltd. 

554 Beatty Street 55 Water Street 

Vancouver, B. C. St John, N. B. 

St. Remi Street and Acorn Avenue 
Montreal, Quebec 

Simonds Saws, Ltd. 

53A Bayham Street, Camden Town 
London, N. W., England 

Simonds File Company 

Fitchburg, Mass. 



^ ^ 4. 9 Simonds Steel Mill 

Lockport, N. Y. 



PRINTED IN THE U S. A 
THE DAVIS PRESS WORCESTER 



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